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Newspaper Archive of
Pahrump Mirror
Pahrump, Nevada
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May 15, 1997     Pahrump Mirror
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May 15, 1997
 

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Pahrump Valley Gazette, Thursday, May 15, 1997 21 Buyer beware - check out the seller Continued from previous page more than you would have by purchasing an adult, trained horse. "BUYER BEWARE!" A horse is a huge commitment of your emotional, physical and financial resources. Take your time. Do your homework. Get expert advise. Be skeptical. A good place to begin is the registry for the breed of horse you want. They will usually give you information on the desired confirmation and characteristics of the breed and often, a list of members with horses for sale. Cheek with some of the breeders to get an idea of market price for the type horse you have in mind. Also check horse magazines, monthly horse periodicals and newspapers to find horses for sale and to get a realistic feel for prices. Hype, overly enthusiastic marketing and excessive claims of a horse's superior breeding or performance should all be red flags to a buyer. A seller who instantly adopts you, claims she/he is going to sell you a $30,000 horse for $3,000 and appears to be too good to be true, usually is. Ask for references and cheek them. Ask the seller for a list of previous buyers preferably going back at least five years. Call some of the buyers. Ask questions. Did the horse live up to the promises? Does the buyer feel the price was fair? Was all the paper work in order and transferred in a timely manner? Most important, if they have purchased or were thinking about purchasing another horse did they or would they return to that seller? If the horse is registered or if it is a foal and is supposed to be eligible to be registered ask to see the horses or the dam' s and sire's papers. Make sure the paperwork will be trans- ferred at the time of sale. If not available, don't buy. If part of your decision to buy is based on performance, don't just look at blue ribbons. Ask if the competition was local, regional, statewide or national. Ask about the classes including how many horses competed. Ask for proof. Ask if the horse has been professionally trained. Ask for information about the trainer. Check with the trainer. Take an objective, experienced horse expert with you to see the horse prior to making a buying decision preferably have him or her with you during your horse search. When you think you've found your horse, have a "vet cheek" by a veterinarian you select. If you have access to a trainer have her/him ride and evaluate the horse. Ride the horse yourself, but only after the seller has ridden him. If you can't find the horse you want at a fair market price locally, look in other areas. Sellers will usually send you information and a video of available horses. You can contact experts in that area to check the horse for you. The horse can be transported by one of a number of horse haulers listed in the classified section of most horse magazines. It's a good idea, especially if you're a novice or haven't been around horses for a while, to hire a trainer for the "getting acquainted period." Insist on a trainer who will work with both you and the horse. One who will teach you the basics of horse care including feeding and grooming as well as handling. Have your horse's new home ready when he arrives. He should have a stall with a run or a corral with a shaded area and a safe place to be worked and exercised. The Bureau of Land Managem,.nt requirements for adoptees of wild horses are: "an enclosed corral with a minimum area of 400 square feet (20' by 20') per animai...Gentled animals must be exercised daily and should have a box stall of at least 144 square feet (12' by 12' or larger) that is well ventilated, drained and frequently cleaned." Now if you still think you want to buy a horse, do. Stay in reality when buying then fall in love. Relax and enjoy the beauty, the romance, the friendship of horse and human. Failing Horse? Might be his teeth. Q: My horse is five years old and has been an easy keeper until this year. He has been losing weight for the last month or so, even though I have increased his ration of both hay and grain. He is also dropping a lot of grain when he eats. What could be wrong? A: Odds are that your horse has never had his teeth checked for points or had his teeth floated. A horse's teeth continue to grow throughout its entire life and as the teeth really stressed such as racehorses and endurance horses should have Flu-Rhino every three months. Optional vaccines include Rabies once a year and Potomac Horse Fever once a year. Both are more rare in this area but can be fatal if a horse does become exposed. Strangles vaccination is also optional, especially in a young horse, but the vaccine may only give partial protec- tion. A horse may still get the disease but not as severely. Submit your questions to Dr Henseler clo the Gazette. He will answer questions as space allows, giving preference byASk ae00Zd the Heaseler Vet o vM SMART I1001 _._ , __ ,. _ _ to questions ofgeneral interest to horse owners. wear, they develop sharp areas called "points" on the outsides of the uppers and insides of the iow- ers causing discomfort or even PICK A pART! cutting the cheeks and tongue while chewing. This gener- ally causes him to break down his food less effectively leading to weight Ios's and sometimes colic. Many colics -- p--i-g-x00 OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK occur due to poorly chewed hay blocking the intestines. Poorly digested food leads to weight loss and poor condi- tion. Your veterinarian should check your horse's teeth once a year starting at 1-2 years of age to help prevent abnormal wear from causing more serious problems later in life. Horses with "parrot mouth," or other poor conformation, will often develop hooks which need early attention. Wolf teeth can be removed while small and before problems with the bit occur. Preventive maintenance can help keep your horse's mouth healthy and pain free. Q: I'm not sure my horse has ever been vaccinated or what vaccinations he needs to stay healthy. A: In this area, the minimum vaccination every horse needs is Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE), Western Equine Encephalitis (WEE), and Tetanus every 6-12 months. If you go further south with your horse, Venezualan Equine Encephalitis (VEE) may be a good idea. Teta- nus is especially important since horses are very sus- ceptible to it and actually shed tetanus spores in their manure. People who work with horses should consult their physician about rec- ommendations for tetanus boosters for themselves. Horses that are shown regularly or kept with horses that are coming and going to shows should be vacci- nated for Influenza (Flu) and Rhinopneumonitis (Rhino) every six months to protect from these viruses. 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